Archive for the ‘"How To"’ Category

How to Be Right On the Money When Choosing a Color to Paint Your Room

Friday, January 2nd, 2009

Choosing the right color can be the most difficult part of painting.  That is unless you posses some basic knowledge of color and how to use it.  Mistakes or imperfections in any painting project can’t be helped, but nothing is worse than not liking the color of the paint after you just spent hours applying it.  All kinds of blemishes can be fixed with usually not too much trouble, changing the entire color of a room is not so easy.  So how do you choose the right color?

Although I always advise my clients that choosing colors is a personal decision and everyone’s tastes are different, anyone who has ever chosen paint knows how challenging it can be to choose the right color.  After all there are virtually thousands of shades to choose from.  And if you are planning on using more than one color the task can be twice as challenging.

Guidlines for Choosing Color

When purchasing paint I always recommend a local retailer who is usually part of a chain such as Bejamin Moore, Pittsburgh or Sherwin Willians.  However, I recently saw an interesting paint color selecting tool in one of the large box stores that caught my interest.  In the paint department at Home Depot they have a computer screen where you can actually see how the paint will look on a wall.  The problem was that although I did think that the computer was helpful, I would still rather deal with a local retailer.
 
Another thing that you can do to be certain that you are choosing the right color is to purchase and apply samples of the various colors that your are considering.  Although the samples do cost a few dollars each and don’t come in every color, the time that you will save by not having to redo the entire job will more than make up for the cost.  You may even want to purchase a few and roll them right alongside each other on the wall that you are planning to paint.

Often when deciding on a color it helps to match at least one wall to a fabric that you already have in the room.  It doesn’t matter if it’s the carpet the drapes or the furniture, but I would highly recommend matching your color to something.  If you don’t have a color scheme yet, now would be a great time to come up with one. 

Depending on the look that you are trying to achieve will determine the colors that you should use.  For instance, if you are trying to make your room look larger I would suggest using a lighter color.  If your room is large I would suggest using darker colors for a warm cozier feeling.   You also really want to keep your colors coordinated and not introduce too many.  It will even help to take a sample to your paint distributor. 

The Finish     

One last thing that you want to consider when choosing your paint is deciding on the finish.  Finishes run from flat which has no shine all the way to gloss which is the shiniest.  In between there is eggshell, pearl and semi gloss.  Depending on the use of the room or what you are painting will determine which finish would work best.  Although there is cleanable flat, the rule of the thumb is the glossier the finish the easier that it will be to clean.  I would always recommend painting molding and trim in semi gloss.

So there you have it, some basic guidelines to get you on course to choosing the right colors to paint your walls.  Follow these simple suggestions and enjoy your new colors for a long, long time. 

When Painting, Preparation Makes the Difference

Thursday, January 1st, 2009

When painting an interior wall preparation is vital in assuring that your job 634193_paint_brushproduces professional quality results.  Recently while reading an online forum several do it yourself painters were arguing over the best brands of interior paint.  One liked Benjamin Moore, one liked Sherwin Williams and one liked Behr.  The disagreement continued on and on until someone chimed in with a comment that rang true.  The comment went something like this “it’s not the paint in as much as the quality of the job is determined by the applicator or the one doing the paining.”
 
He went on to say that a great painter can make any paint look good.  He also went on to say that one of the major differences between an average painter and an above average painter who continually turns out the fine work is in the preparation.  This also rang true to me. 

Anyone can roll paint on a wall.  That’s why painting is the most likely job to be undertaken by someone who wants to do it themselves.  And why not, it looks easy.  You pour paint in a pail or in a tray, roll a roller in it and apply it to the wall.  Well that is true, but although there skill needed in applying the paint the most important aspect of any paint job is in the preparation.

Let’s take a look at how to prepare to paint a room, the essential steps that will make your paint job glow and stand out from the average.

1. Primer- Now, yes you can get away without priming a wall before you paint it.  Often you can just apply an extra coat of paint, but by applying a coat of primer before you paint you will achieve several things.  Primer will give your paint a deeper look more enhanced look.  It will also help hide imperfections and if you are trying to cover up any discolorations primer is a must.

2. Compound - Carefully compound and sand holes and imperfections.  My personal favorite here is joint compound.  I like joint compound because it will sand easily once it dries which will allow me to give the job a nice finished look.  Although other spackling compounds will dry quicker and shrink less, I still like joint compound because of the work ability it gives me. If once dry it does shrink to much apply a second coat before sanding.  I also recommend taking a sanding block and lightly going over the entire wall to remove any chips or high spots.

3. Tape - One of the biggest differences between an average paint job and professional looking results is sharp crisp lines between colors and finishes.  To accomplish this, whenever I paint I use quite a bit of blue painters tape.  Some people do have a steady enough hand to make a straight edge, but the average painter doing it themselves will see a big difference when using tape.
  
There is one trick though in using painters tape.  When applying paint to the wall adjacent to the tape do not overfill your brush.  In fact make sure that it is moderately dry.  What you are doing is making a seal between the tape and the adjacent wall.  Once this first coat is done, you can go over it again with a second coat.  The reason that you want to go lightly on your first coat adjacent to the tape is if you do go to heavily in this area the paint will inadvertently run under the tape distorting your line.

4. The Right Brush - There is nothing like having the right tool and this couldn’t hold truer than when painting.  Personally, I like to use a brush with a chiseled end where one end of my brush has longer bristles than the other.   When painting tight narrow spaces like moldings or window frames you’re going to need a narrow brush and a chiseled tip gives me better control, wider areas will look better when using a larger brush.  Also, don’t look to save money here, you want to use a better grade of brush, one that is better constructed and will not leave bristles in your finished work.
 
Then once the preparation work is done it is just a matter of applying the paint.  By taking your time and carefully preparing the job not only will you find the work easier, but your job will come out looking like it was done by a pro.

“No Need to Abandon Ship - How to Prevent Water Damage in Your Basement”

Tuesday, November 25th, 2008

With the weather getting colder you can just feel that winter is on the weather_warning_sign_way.  Snow, wind, ice and frigid temperatures, many areas will be experiencing them soon.  Don’t get me wrong though, winter can be a beautiful time of year, it is just a matter of being prepared because it’s so unpredictable.  One day it is snowing and the next day it’s raining and the problem is that you never know where all that rain water is going to end up.  You hope that it is not inside of your home, but if it is you will be facing a good deal of very costly damage. 

It’s never fun to talk about preventing damage or worse, having to recover from it, but it is something that you need to do - just in case.  Anyone that has ever had to clean up a flood will tell you that it is not a pleasant experience. All too often personal possessions, sometimes irreplaceable are lost not to mention the damage to your home.  Then there is always the possibility of mold which can make even the healthiest person sick.
   
Over the years I have cleaned up from quite a few floods, many that could not be prevented, but many that had the homeowner taken just a couple of small precautions could have been.   Then it never fails to amaze me how once someone experiences water damage they fix what caused it after the fact.  I guess it’s the experience of having a flood and it being such a devastating experience that they don’t want to go through it again.  Who could blame them, but wouldn’t it make sense to fix these things before there was water in your home?

To make sure that you do not ever have to go through this devastating experience here is a look at the four most common causes.

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The Online Handyman’s Guide to - Installing Bifold Doors

Wednesday, October 29th, 2008


Doors provide privacy and security as well as keep stuff that you do not want to see out of sight.  Think about it, if you didn’t have closet doors you would be forced to look at all the stuff that you have in your closet that you did not want to see in the first place.
 
In my previous post “Do You Know Where Your Stuff Is?” I made a point of how closets not only keep all of your stuff organized, but out of sight as well.  And, you would not want a closet without a closet door knowing that doors conceal everything in the space behind them.

But what do you do when space is limited and a regular flat panel door becomes an obstacle and more of a nuisance than a necessity - you install bifold closet doors.
  
Bifold doors come in many styles and as the name implies fold in half to save on space.  Now if space is a problem you could use sliding doors, but the problem with sliding doors is that one side is always closed, meaning a part of the entry is always blocked - the doors are always on either the left or the right side.  Also, sliding doors don’t work in a narrow opening because of a lack of space. With bifold doors you can access the entire space at the same time. 

If you are looking to change an existing flat or panel door to bifold doors you could call in a professional.  However, they are rather easy to install, assuming that you have a standard size opening and by installing them yourself you can save some money in the process.
 
Continue reading to learn how easy it is to install your own bifold doors -

But, before you begin installing your new bifold doors here is a list of the tools that you will need:
Screwdriver
Hammer
Power drill

Now let’s begin,

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“Who Else Wants to Rid Their Home of Unwanted CLUTTER - Forever?”

Monday, October 13th, 2008

When it comes to space there never seems to be enough of it.  Everywhere that you turn something seems to be there.  The shelves are full, the closets are jammed and you haven’t seen the basement floor in years.  Yep, the amount of stuff that one can collect over just a short period of time can be incredible.  Just ask anyone who has ever moved, they will certainly be able to tell you about all the junk that they collected and either had to pack or throw out.  It’s a simple fact, most people just have to much clutter.

Fixing your clutter problem is not easy, but it can be done!  Returning your home to a clutter free living space is a three part process. (more…)

How to Sell Your Home For the Best Price in the Shortest Amount of Time

Wednesday, October 8th, 2008

You suddenly find yourself in a position where you need to sell your home.  Key_with_labelYet, when you think about moving and all that goes with it you are not looking forward to the task.  Moving is not an easy experience!   When you take into account all the packing and planning it can be rather daunting.  The competition is brutal, credit is tight and buyers are in no hurry.  So how do you sell your home, in the quickest amount of time and for the highest possible price?  The answer is simple- you have to make your home stand out from the rest.

But, how do you do that?  Well, there are several ways with the easiest one being to just lower the price.  But, who wants to do that? We all want to get as much money as possible out of our home.  For most their home is their largest asset. (more…)

How to Install a Drop ( Suspended ) Ceiling

Friday, October 3rd, 2008

Every so often a customer comes to me to install a ceiling.  Sometimes it is because the original ceiling got damaged and sometimes it’s because the room that they want it for was never finished.  Often a part of a house like a basement will be left unfinished and the homeowner will finish it at some point in the future.

Drop ceiling 002The most common type of ceiling that I use in a basement is a drop ceiling, also called a suspended ceiling.  And the reason that it is so common is because a drop ceiling is a good choice for an area such as a basement because it allows for access to such things as pipes and electrical wires.  Another good reason for installing a drop ceiling is because of the ease of installation.  While a drywall ceiling can be a challenge to install, a drop ceiling can be installed by almost anyone.

A drop ceiling consists of a grid work of metal strips that snap together to form 2 x 2 or 2 x 4 (600 x 600 mm) grids.  The entire grid work is suspended from the ceiling by metal wires and each cell is filled with an acoustic ceiling tile.  Ceiling tiles come in a variety of styles and colors.

To learn how easy it is to install your own drop ceiling - (more…)

Fall Lawn Maintenance

Wednesday, September 3rd, 2008

Are you becoming frustrated because your lawn is not looking as good as it did?  Does it look thinner; maybe even have some bare patches and some weeds?  Is it not as thick and lush as it was back in the early part of the spring?

In early spring when your lawn first comes out of its dormant winter period it will look great.  It’s very green and thick and grows very quickly.  But unfortunately the long summer takes its toll.  Heat stress is very damaging on your lawn not to mention all the other things that can happen to it during the summer season. 

So what can you do to return your lawn to the beautiful state than it was in last spring?  Well there is not much that you can do to get your lawn looking that good again this season, although you can make some improvement.  However it just so happens that fall is the best time of year to prepare your lawn for next season. TruGreen offers helpful lawn care tips.

Begin by getting rid of any weeds.  Broad leaf weeds are only going to become more of a nuisance so you want to make sure that you kill any broad leaf weeds before they are able to drop their seeds and spread.  I liked the use of a good all-purpose lawn weed killer.  Anything that you pulled by hand I feel always has a better chance of coming back.

Once you have the weeds under control it’s time to over seed your lawn.  Begin this process by first de thatching your lawn.  You want to get rid of all of the dead grass and stuff so that the seed that you apply will be able to reach the soil.  Only seed that is in contact with the soil will germinate.  If you do not have a heavy thatch build up you can get away by just roughing up the soil with a rake or even a rototiller depending on the condition of your lawn.

Next it’s time for your lawns first fertilization.  I suggest fertilizing your lawn twice in the fall to get the best results in the spring.  The reason that you want to fertilize twice is because even though the blades of grass in your lawn are not growing, the root system below them is hard at work.   The first fertilization should be with the slow release nitrogen to help maintain the lawn’s color during the winter months. Then in late October and want to apply a good synthetic fertilizer containing high levels of potassium.

But, before you fertilize you should analyze your soil.  Lawn and garden retailers have large selections of test kits that you can use.  You want a ph between 6 and 6.8 for maximum nutrient absorption.  You can control the ph of your lawn with lime.

It’s now time to over seed.  Exactly how much that means depends on the type of seed that you are using.  Refer to the seed package for this information.  You can either makes the seed with peat moss at about a 50-50 ratio before you spread it or just simply cover the lawn lightly once the seed has been applied. 

Set your mower to about 3 inches, water about twice a week depending on weather conditions and then just sit back and wait for next spring.

Never Having Enough Ice? - How To Install An Ice Maker

Thursday, August 28th, 2008

Last year I got an idea - why not install an ice maker!  I love conveniences and having my own ice maker is one of the best.  Now with many refrigerators you are able to install an after market ice maker, only mine was not one of them.  But my refrigerator was getting on in years and since we have been talking about getting a new one I decided that we would get a new top-of-the-line double door, fully loaded fridge and to save some money I would install my new ice maker.

My installation however was more difficult than most because my refrigerator was not close to the cold water line.  If you are considering installing one for yourself, you may not have to follow all of the steps that I have outlined here. That said, here is how I went about it;

First I was going to need some supplies.

1. 14 feet of half-inch copper tubing

(This is what made by job more difficult than most.  I ran 14′ half inch pipe between the tee that I spliced into the main cold water line and the valve.  Had my cold water line been closer to the refrigerator I could have connected the valve right to the tee and the copper tubing from the valve to the refrigerator and skipped this step.)

2. 10 feet of flexible quarter inch copper tubing
3. a three-quarter copper tee that reduced to a half an inch at the outlet for my new water line
4. a half-inch shut off valve that reduced to a quarter-inch for my flexible copper tubing that would eventually connect to the back of my refrigerator.

Often people will use what is known as a saddle valve instead.  A saddle valve is good because it allows for installation without the use of solder making it easier for the do it yourselfer.  However, I do not like to recommend using a saddle valve because I find over time they are subject to leaks.

Now since I have done plumbing before I had the necessary tools, but if you have never done soldering, you’re also going to need a propane torch, solder, flux, a wire brush and some emery cloth along with a pipe cutter.  All of these items are available in the Your Online Handyman Store on the front page or by clicking here.

Once I had all of my supplies I began by dry fitting everything - that is everything except for cutting into the main.  I began cutting my half inch copper pipe to the necessary length.  For me this was going to be 14 feet, which meant that I would need one whole length and a piece of another.  A pipe cutter made this job easy.  You can use a hack saw, but a pipe cutter is a better choice because it makes a better cut.

Picture 001Once I saw that everything was going to fit together it was time to cut into the main.  At this point I made sure that I turned off the valve to the water supply! I cut into the main exactly the same way that I cut my new 14 feet of pipe with my pipe cutter.

Next I began cleaning the two ends of the main. To remove any burrs I used the small blade on my pipe cutter.  This process is called reaming.  There are special tools made for this, but often you will find a small blade on your pipe cutter that does the job fine. Then I cleaned the ends of the pipe with my emery cloth.  It was amazing how as soon as I began cleaning the color of the copper came back to life.  I also cleaned the inside of the pipe with a wire brush.

It’s very important to make sure that your connections are free of all dirt before you begin to solder. So I then applied flux to approximately 1/2? of all the pipe ends to prepare them for soldering.  I also began mounting the new pipe to the joists under the kitchen floor to get them in Picture 002place.  Next I fit my new tee into the main line and then attached the 14 foot length that I had previously cut making sure to clean and flux all the ends as I went along.  I also fit my valve on the other end.

I began soldering by lighting my propane torch and applying heat to the end of the pipe that the other pipe fit into. Once my pipe became hot enough, after about 10 - 15 seconds I applied solder to the joint.  You will know when the joint is hot enough because it’s at this point that the solder will melt.  Begin applying your solder on top and let it be pulled around to the bottom side of the joint by a capillary action.  Then once I had soldered completely sealing the joint, I cooled it using a rag making sure never to touch the pipe.

Once I was finished soldering the three ends of my tee, the coupling in my 14 foot length and the valve at the other end it was time to install the flexible copper tubing that I used between the valve and the back of the refrigerator. I began by drilling a hole through the floor slightly larger than my quarter-inch tubing.  After feeding the tube up through the floor it was time to attach one end to the back of the refrigerator using a compression coupling and the other end to the valve also using a compression coupling.

Using a compression coupling is not as difficult as it sounds.  I simply inserted my copper tubing into the coupling and turned the hex nut.  By turning the nut I compressed the joint which made it tight.

At this point it was time to open the valve that I had installed, turn the water back on at the main and wait for ice.  No more making ice for me! 

“How to Install a Faucet - It’s Easier Than You Think”

Wednesday, August 20th, 2008

FaucettOne job that almost anyone can do is replacing an old worn out faucet.  It is not as difficult as you may think.  All it takes is a little know-how, which is readily available, some hand tools and the confidence to try. 

Faucets for the kitchen and bath come from many different manufacturers in many different styles.  The good news is that most install the same way.  There is usually some type of mounting hardware held in place by nuts that hold the faucet in place from the underneath side of the sink.

To begin you are going to need a basin wrench.   Being that you are working in a very confined area between the sink and the wall you will need a very specialized wrench.  A basin wrench is made specifically for this kind of job.

Before you can install a new faucet, you are going to have to remove the old faucet so the first thing that you are going to need to do is turn off the water supply.  This can usually be done by going under the sink and turning off the two valves that you will see on the wall. 

Picture 015If by some chance you do not have cut off valves under the sink, stop right here - you will need a plumber to install them for you.  Then you can change your faucet.  Its okay to let your plumber install your cut off valves, but unless he’s a relative tell him that you are going to install the faucet yourself.  By doing the faucet yourself you will still save a couple of hundred dollars.

Picture 023The next step is to go below the sink and disconnect the hot and cold water supply lines that are connected to the valves that you’ve just turned off.  The water supply lines are the flexible or copper tubing connected to the valves that you just closed.  They are connected to the valves by a nut that you need to turn counterclockwise.
  
Once you have the water off and the supply lines disconnected place a pale below the supply lines and open the water supply.  This will allow any remaining water in these tubes to drain out.   It’s now time to separate the old faucet from the sink.  Usually this is the most difficult part of the job.  Depending on the materials that the faucet was originally installed with will determine how easily it will come away from the sink.

Loosen the nuts on the mounting hardware counterclockwise with the basin wrench.  At this point and with some luck your faucet should lift right off.

Now you are ready to install your new faucet.  Begin by taking it out of the box and make sure by checking the instructions that you have all the parts.  Then follow any assembly instructions from the manufacturer.  This step is a lot easier than it sounds.

Place the faucet over the holes in the sink according to the manufacturer’s directions.  Usually this will involve at least placing plumbers putty between the faucet and the sink to create a water tight seal.  Then place any mounting hardware over the valves on the underneath side of the sink  and tighten it all together with the nuts provided with the faucet.   At this point it’s just a matter of reversing the procedure with the hot and cold water supply lines.

Check for leaks, congratulate yourself - and you didn’t think you could do it.






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